Grand Canyon Adventure – Day 3: Phantom Ranch

We woke up at 4am once again. Our group wanted to be on the trail by 5 to take advantage of the shade before sunrise. As fate would have it became obvious as we woke that another one of our hikers was rendered ill from the heat of the canyon. We quickly realized she would not be going up that day and we sought the help of the Ranger Station. We had read enough to know what was in store, that she would have to stay in the canyon until she was strong enough to make the climb. We immediately made a plan for what was best for her and the group as a whole. I cannot say enough about this group of women. The caring and compassion shown to one another coupled with swift and sound decision making was beautiful to see. ❤️ We decided 3 would stay and 5 would make the ascent that day.

But our big decisions for the day were not over. Once at the bottom of the canyon you have 3 options to climb out. North Kaibab, South Kaibab or Bright Angel. North Kaibab was still closed for the season so that was out. South Kaibab, as we knew already was hot & steep. The normal route is to go up Bright Angel, however a water line project was still under construction blocking our direct route. You could get there but it required heading up South Kaibab for 2.5 miles, taking a connector, Tonto Trail, and then hiking the remaining 4.5 up Bright Angel. The advantage was water access, a somewhat more gentle grade and periodic shade. The disadvantage was the additional 5 miles it would add. We started up SK not knowing which direction we would go but eager to take advantage of the shade. When we arrived at the shelter at Tipoff, where we had to make the choice, we were still unsure. Fortunately, as we sat and debated, several park rangers joined us and they were able to give us the answers we needed. At the minimum we needed more water to make the climb and in the canyon, water is life. We could not risk running out and we wanted to see more of the canyon. The choice was made and off we went to take the Tonto West connector trail and make a day of it!

Immediately we felt a new sense of adventure and excitement. It was the right choice for us! We took our time taking oodles of photos, stopping to examine the vegetation, filter stream water, rest in shady spots, watch lizards doing pushups, and ooh & ahh at this really big hole we were in.

It was a lovely day and we soaked it in. Just before we reached Havasupi Gardens, where we would begin the climb up Bright Angel, we encountered a detour rumored to be a bit ugly and it was. We backtracked, climbed aluminum stairs wedged in the dirt hill, and walked the steepest incline of the day adding another .8 to our hike. But the gift on the other side was glorious. Havasupi Gardens brought shade, a breeze, a relaxing lunch with loads of laughter and time to stretch out on a bench and rest. We took an hour and just enjoyed the cool down before the last push.

Bright Angel was beautiful. Gorgeous, expansive views, water access, shaded spots to rest and a friendly park volunteer who pointed out lizzard tracks and petroglyphs.

When we reached the 1.5 rest house, Betsy was waiting and we were so happy to see her! She provided cheers and encouragement for the last push.

We headed to the Grand Lodge and to dinner, grateful for the day and our accomplishment. 🏜️

Throughout the day we had been checking in on our friends still at Phantom Ranch using our garmins to stay in touch. At the end of the day we were concerned they would need another day and discussed all our options and scenarios. We knew they were safe and yet they still needed to get out.